Welcome to Reef Keeping Made Easy!

Reef Keeping Made Easy is dedicated to the growing number of saltwater aquarium enthusiasts.  We strive to assist you with basic information to help you in the hobby and attract newcomers to the hobby.  We began as a Facebook group where people could help one another and learn from an experienced admin team.  With so many large groups where bashing one another is normal and misinformation is rampant, we set out to change that!  We are doing so by being actively involved and sharing our first hand knowledge of what works.  *Disclaimer*  We are not monetized or sponsored, and the information we share is from our own experiences on what has worked for us.  Use the information at your own risk, research and patience is key.

Great site for learning about saltwater aquariums.

-Mike K.

https://www.facebook.com/100000014203550/posts/3945274555482979/

How do I get rid of green hair algae?  What are the best test kits?  What equipment do I need?  All of this and more to come.

Saltwater fish and reef aquarium setup for the beginner.

Whether you are a beginner to saltwater or aquariums in general, these are your basics for a saltwater startup. 

1.) Picking a location:  you want to pick an area close to electric.  Make sure to pick an outlet that you can solely dedicate to the tank.  If there are other things plugged in, you may find yourself overloading the breaker.  A drip loop is always recommended in case of a leak.  Try to think ahead when wiring so you can create a much cleaner, more organized look with no tangling.  This is not a good situation for a reef or FOWLR (Fish Only With Love Rock) tank.  Next you want to make sure it’s a location that does not have a lot of sunlight.  Natural sunlight will undoubtedly cause an algae outbreak.  Once algae takes hold, it can be difficult to control. Make sure to measure the depth and height as well as the length to insure it will fit.  Good ventilation is a must for gas exchange (CO2), it should be placed in a room with good air circulation.  Make sure the area is level and can withstand the weight of the tank when full.  Saltwater is over 8 pounds per gallon, so a 100 gallon fish tank weighs over 800 pounds.  That’s not taking into consideration the weight of the stand, live rock and sump or refugium.  Houses with crawl spaces or plenum construction should be braced to take the weight.  It’s best to seek the guidance from a professional if it’s going upstairs.  As for the size, make sure you research what you want in it so you have an idea how small or big you should go.  You end up spending more money in the long run by buying too small and upgrading later.

2.) Aquarium selection:  There are three basic types of aquariums:

•Traditional-   A traditional is your basic tank, 4 sides and a bottom. 

•Overflow (to allow for a sump).  It usually comes with the necessary plumbing kit and tubing to and from the sump.  Make sure you pick the proper size return pump for your particular setup.  Your LFS (Local Fish Store) May be able to assist you with that.  If you are looking to drill the tank yourself, make sure you choose a tank that is not tempered glass and don’t forget the safety equipment.

•All-in-one- this includes the Innovative Marine line, Oceanic Biocube and Fluval Flex to name a few.  All of the filtration is built right in and can be a convenient way to get started.  A compartment in the back or side has replaceable filters, along with bioballs or various other mechanical filters.  This compartment, depending on the size and mode you choose can house a small protein skimmer and can be customized to suit your needs.

Besides the types listed above, there are acrylic and glass.  Both have their pros and cons.  Acrylic can come in various shapes and you can choose to have a custom tank built but are prone to scratches.  Glass is usually limited to basic square or rectangular.  If you choose to buy used, check for leaks and ask when it was originally bought.  Even new tanks can be defective but the older they are the more they are prone to leaks.  If you plan on having lighting in the stand, whether it cabinet lighting or for a refugium, you may want to paint the bottom of the tank to prevent algae growth.

3.) Choosing a stand: When choosing, make sure you take into account for the sump or refugium, phosphate or chaeto reactor(s), auto top off units and all of the supplies.  It’s best to start with the tank, then sump or refugium then lastly the stand.

4.) Filtration: There are three ways of filtering:  mechanical, biological and chemical.  This helps to reduce the amount of time between water changes.  Always do your research on equipment and size needed.  Bulk Reef Supply, Octo and eShopps are a few brand names that make premium products.  If making your own sump out of a tank, silicone will adhere to glass easier than acrylic for the baffles and has a much stronger bond.  Make sure to use reef safe silicone.  If you buy a traditional tank, hang on back (HOB) or canister filters are a good way to go and the selections are plentiful.  All-in-one tanks can be customized or left as is in terms of filtration.  In all three tanks, there are options for protein skimming.  Some are better than others, make sure whatever you choose fits in the sump before you make the purchase.  For the all-in-one, I highly recommend the CPR SR3, for in sump I use an Octo and there are several HOB skimmers on the market.  Phosban and Chaeto reactors will certainly help as well.

5.) Power outages: Battery back up is a good thing to have in case of a power outage but a generator can be invaluable if you are out for an extended period of time.  

6.) Heaters: It’s good practice to replace your heater every year to year and a half.  Some heater brands include Cobalt, Hydor, Finnex and Aqueon.  Some heaters are factory set to 78 and cannot be changed, others are adjustable.  There is always the option of an external temperature controller in case the heating element gets stuck on.  If you do use a controller, a second heater is always an option for colder climates.  Stability is key and a temperature gage is a must, in fact I recommend having two (they are cheap enough) just in case one fails.  The heater should not make direct contact with the aquarium sides.  

7.) Circulation: Power heads or wave makers are essential in a saltwater environment for reef keeping or a FOWLR tank.  Ecotech, Hydor Koralia and Maspect make excellent products.  There are many controller options for them as well to help alleviate dead spots where waste can collect.  Constant flow at the same speed and same direction can cause coral tissue damage and dead spots.  Using a controller can reduce the life of the powerhead as it turns on and off thousands of times a month/year.  They should cause a good amount of surface agitation to help with gas exchange.  Whatever way you choose, make sure to pay attention to the sand bed and coral to make sure it’s not too much or too little.

8.) lighting: Aquarium lighting has come a long way in the last few years with LED’s.  Some still like T5 lighting as their primary or combined source of light.  T5 bulbs should be replace every 9 months to a year.  LED’s are a higher up front price but can save you money over the long run.  Depending on what LED’s you buy, some are fully programmable and others can be put on a timer. Ecotech Radions, AI Primes, Viparspectra, Kessil, Mars Aqua and SB Reef are a few brands that are popular.  There are also LED light bars like the Current Orbit, Marineland, Koval and Finnex that come in various lengths.  T5 and LED hybrids are also an option.  If you plan on keeping coral, do your research on what kind you want and what their needs on lighting will be.  If it’s a FOWLR tank, you  don’t need to worry about par levels as much.

9.) Salt mix:  Your LFS May sell RO (reverse osmosis) water but it’s good to have a system at home.  If you do get one, make sure it has a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter.  You may also want to add a deionization chamber to it (RODI).  As for salt mixes, some have higher elevated levels for those who do them less frequently or don’t do additives.  Some salt mixes to choose from are Tropic Marin, Reef Crystals, Instant Ocean, Red Sea Coral Pro or you may choose to do filtered NSW (natural sea water).  There is much debate about using NSW and salt brands, research is key.  Always use RO/RODI water to mix and for top offs.  Do not use salt water for topping off, salt does not evaporate but it will creep out little by little.

10.) Rock or live rock:  Live rock with coralline algae, aquacultured (dry rock out in the ocean for a set amount of time then removed) and dry rock are among the most frequently used.  Dry rock should be cured for several weeks in saltwater with good circulation to begin the process of good bacteria.  A pound to pound and a half per gallon is a good measure.  Dry fit them outside the tank first to figure out how you want to set them up.  This will save you time and aggravation trying to do it in the tank.

11.) The Nitrogen cycle: Ammonia comes from uneaten food (from over feeding) and fish waste.  Fish and organisms consume large volumes of nitrogen that is not needed so they expel it. If the levels are higher than what they are trying to expel, it transfer back to them and kill them.  Beneficial bacteria oxidizes ammonia into nitrogen, then  nitrites and nitrates.  Bacteria converts nitrogen into nitrogen gas and good circulation is required to maintain good oxygen and PH levels.  When your nitrates climb, it’s time for a water change, which can help reduce it.  High nitrates can irritate fish and coral.  Beneficial bacteria find a home in the sand bed and live rock.  They sell nitrifying bacteria to feed the beneficial bacteria or you can ghost feed the tank.  Tank cycling can take 3-6 weeks, depending on tank size and what you do to help the process along.  When your test shows the ammonia and nitrates are gone, your tank has built up enough beneficial bacteria to handle the bio-load.   If you have coral, you should be testing a minimum of 1-2 times a week. If it’s a FOWLR tank, once a week is good.

12.) Picking Fish: I recommend starting slow, and with a less expensive docile fish.  Do your research to make sure they will be compatible, your tank size is good big enough for them and you know what food they require.  Having a quarantine tank is a good idea and  a lot of aquarium keepers will not go without one.  If a fish has ich or other parasite, it will spread to other inhabitants.  QT should be at least 6 weeks which will give you plenty of time to monitor them.

13.) Accessories: I would recommend at least the following.  Master test kit (I test for Salinity, Phosphate, Calcium, PH, Alkalinity, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ammonia, Iodine and Magnesium).  I like the Red Sea test kit but you will have to supplement that kit as it does not have everything mentioned above.  For Alkalinity and Phosphate, I use Hannah instruments, they are expensive but worth it!  Always use a refractometer (with calibration solution, to properly calibrate) as hydrometers are very inaccurate.  I keep a reef log with the numbers from the above tests, date, time and day.  Some of the tests will have a different result depending on the time of day.  You can refer back to your results in the event of dead fish or coral to help you narrow down why it is happening.  A siphon is a must have, a turkey baster for blowing off coral or feeding.  Aquarium magnet cleaner or scraper.  I also use a floating feeding station so the excess does not get stuck to the sides of my aquarium creating a scum line.  I know it sounds simple, but I always keep a bath towel nearby.  Having the right products to help raise Alkalinity, Calcium, Iodine, Magnesium and the like are a necessity.  I recommend and use Aqua Vitro, Kent, API, Seachem, Caribsea and polylab (Reef Roids), Marine Snow and Red Sea for testing and replenishing depleted levels mentioned.  Chemipure and Phosban are good choices to help with filtration.

I hope this helps, thanks for reading!  

Sources:  

The Fish Tank

Bulk Reef Supply

Live Aquaria

The Spruce Pets

And of course experience, trial and error!

#ReefKeepingMadeEasy